Archive for the 'Nairobi' Category



Living in New York I don’t take for granted the fact that superb Indian food is only a couple of blocks away at any given point. Anywhere in the greater New York area (including parts of New Jersey, like Iselin, for example) Indian food of the highest quality is available. I am an incredibly huge Indian fan. I love the thick curry stews from the North, the tandoori baked naan with a little butter, onion fritters, fried vegetable samosas, nutty biryani with all the trimmings and a mango lassi to boot; I love the spicy combinations from the south, the hot sambar that goes with just about anything, the pickled fruits and vegetables that are tremendous on their own and perfect as a palate cleanser, the crispy edges and soft potato center of spicy dhosa, the perfectly portioned thali for the times when I can’t decide and just one option, and the creamy rice pudding to end the meal. To me, Indian food is the ultimate comfort food. It satisfied the mouth, the heart, the soul. It’s warming, homemade, and you feel so full that you get slightly worried for your digestive system after you eat.

However ambiguously, “They” say that the best Indian food outside of India can be found in London. Certainly the Indian scene of London is to be respected and taken advantage of after a flight across the pond. However, I certainly think that New York and Jersey offer quite a down-home traditional Indian fare that can compete with even those expensive, up-scale British joints.

If New York can compete, then Nairobi can definitely compete. A large Indian population from both the north and south have immigrated to Kenya over the years and there is a thriving Indian community within Nairobi. This makes for interesting cultural diversity (and some, although relatively few, complications with locals) and it makes for spectacular culinary offerings. There are quite a few good options when it comes to Indian in Nairobi: from the expensive side (like Handi) to inexpensive food-court options (see next post), you can’t go wrong.

Handi is located in a smaller mall adjacent to the Westlands area and just off of the highway leading out of Nairobi to the West. “The Mall” contains several good restaurants, Handi being the shining star. It has been described as being “the best Indian food in Africa” (popularly told, though I don’t know who said it). From my experience, I wouldn’t argue. The atmosphere is quite upscale and whether you enter from the mall or from the parking garage, you are surrounded by a beautiful, serene setting that makes for a welcome respite from the busy streets of Nairobi, not to mention the weak-in-the-kness curry aromas that hint at the meal to come.

Definitely try some starters before your main dish. I like to keep it simple at Handi and order the poppadoms. Served with a spicy salsa fresca over the top, I find that poppadoms don’t ruin the appetite but definitely prepare the palate for the main course. For the main course several dishes come highly recommended.  Perhaps my favorite Indian dish is Malai Kofta: delicate vegetable dumplings that have been lightly fried and are served in a rich, thick gravy.  The dumplings often have cashews in them that serve as a light crunch to the dish and whether you order it with naan or simple basmati rice, sopping up the gravy is the best part.  Handi offers a wonderful rendition of this dish and in a substantial portion.  All dishes are served in traditional Indian vessels including copper and clay pots and each comes over its own individual flame warmer.   Handi also offers several paneer classics that are difficult to beat.  The paneer korma (mixed vegetables, gravy and paneer) and the saag paneer (creamy spinach with paneer cubes) absolutely to die for.  The saag paneer smells richly of cloves and other subtle spices that add to the creaminess of the dish.  

Accompany your meal with a drink from Handi’s full bar.  The local beer (the “pride of Kenya”) is Tusker and guarantee you won’t leave Kenya without trying it.  It’s not a bad beer, but it isn’t impressive either.  It’s light and has enough flavor to satisfy going down…try it and you’ll decide!  If you want to drink Kenyan but Tusker isn’t for you, try the Tusker malt.  Though it’s a bit more expensive and comes in a smaller bottle, the taste more than makes up for it and it is a good alternative to the regular, 500 ml bottle of Tusker.  Other beers include White Cap (another light lager) and Pilsner.  As far as liquor goes, Kenya has one liqueur that is definitely worth trying and makes a great gift/souvenir when going home.  The drink is called Amarula and comes from a fruit that elephants traditionally eat.  It’s a creamy liqueur and difficult to describe: think Bailey’s but mildly fruity.  It’s nice by itself or in coffee.
Make a stop by Handi during your next trip to Nairobi, you won’t be disappointed and the ambiance will be a respite from the bustle of your trip.
The Mall
Second Floor
Nairobi, Kenya 

Langi Langi

Nairobi doesn’t get the respect it deserves.  Certainly, there is some getting used to the East African lifestyle, but the same goes for anywhere on earth.  The first time I was in Nairobi I was certainly overwhelmed but as I got to know the ins and outs, the local streets and cabbies, the local transportation routes, the cheap internet cafes and places to eat, the sprawling city suddenly became accessible.  

There are certain things to know about getting around in East Africa.  The most certain way to get around (if you don’t know the streets) is by taxi.  Take heed though, because you’ll be sized up and based on your savvy, you’ll be charged an arm and a leg to get where you need to go.  The most economical, if not slightly round-a-bout way is by matatu.  Matatus are privately operated (though now government-regulated) mini “buses” that pile 12-15 passengers into a small minivan.  The matatus run on regular circuits so if you know where they are going and where to catch the return ride, they are totally worth it (about 10 shillings for a matatu ride versus 200-400 shillings for a cab).  
The first striking thing about Nairobi is the number of pedestrians.  People on their way to and from work in full professional suits pass farmers grazing their cattle on the side of the freeway (something likely to be noticed by first time visitors on their ride from Jomo Kenyatta Airport into downtown), children in various school uniforms skip along well-trodden foot paths that stand in place of sidewalks over much of the city.  The next striking thing is the shear intensity of the traffic; think New York numbers without stoplights.  Instead of electronically regulated traffic signals, Nairobi is a maze of roundabouts in which four lane highways merge into a frothing traffic jam at more intersections than one would think possible.  
This isn’t to dissuade one from traveling in Nairobi.  On the contrary, I have come to appreciate (enjoy is a strong word) the craziness of the city, the throb of city life, the sound of Swahili mixed with beautifully accented English.  Most of all, though, I have come to love the food.
Nairobi is a bustling metropolis that has attracted a mix of nationalities, most common of which is Indian.  Not surprisingly, the Indian food is amazing (see upcoming blogs for the restaurants “Handi” and “Vegetarian Indian”).  A traveler, though, can find any cuisine they are looking for.  There are excellent Italian, Chinese, Cuban and Ethiopian restaurants throughout the city and close to many hotels in the tourist-friendly Westlands district.  In the near future I will review many of these local eateries and their surprising ambiance and selection.  
Kenya is not given enough credit for its own cuisine, either.  What is Kenyan cuisine?  It’s a question that even the most knowledgeable western citytaster may have difficulty with…I certainly haven’t seen a Kenyan restaurant in the U.S. or Europe.  A simple answer to the question is meat stews.  Kenyans specialize in tenderly cooking any number of meats in a thick vegetable stew and serving it along some sort of starch.  Though the food can sometimes be bland, when cooked well, the food is tasty and quite filling.  The most common starch is called “ugali” and is basically a white corn meal that is boiled with water and made into a thick cake in a large circular pot.  The cake is then removed from the pot as a whole and sliced.  Stew is poured over the ugali and you dig in.  Kenyans often grow up with the opinion that no meal is complete without ugali; without ugali, how can you be full (an opinion I’ve often heard)?  Beef stew tends to be the most reliable, but in Nairobi goat stew may also be quite tasty (in rural areas of Kenya the goat tends to be tough and gamy).  Instead of a meat stew, Kenyan food can also take the form of Nyama Choma: BBQ beef (more commonly goat) and sometimes chicken that is served communally or shaved from the shank onto your plate.  Starch is still a part of this tradition and often a vegetable stew can be found on the side.  
If you’re in Nairobi and would like to try some traditional Kenyan fare, there are countless restaurants to mention.  One standout that comes with other benefits is the Langi Langi Cafe.  When you go to Nairobi, you have to go to the National Museums of Kenya on Museum Hill (any matatu driver or cabbie could direct you/take you there).  Kenya is renowned for its role in the reconstruction of human origins.  The UNESCO World Heritage site of Koobi Fora (along the East side of Lake Turkana near the Ethiopian border) alone has produced thousands of fossil specimens and tens of thousands of ancient stone tools that allow archaeologists to gain behavioral evolutionary perspectives on the human past.  The museum has just been reconstructed and is thus a must-see.  After spending your morning viewing the exhibits, go to the Langi Langi Cafe located at the back of the museum property for lunch.  
An open-air eatery, the Langi Langi offers an extensive and inexpensive buffet lunch that you can eat along an open patio area (just watch out for the monkeys that might try to steal your lunch).  With options including various meat stews and nyama choma, a vegetable of the day and your choice of starch (rice, ugali or chapati), Langi Langi consistently pleases the palate.  I recommend ordering separately their somosas (get at least 3).  These glorious fried triangular pastries can be found all over Kenya, but Langi Langi makes mouthwateringly hot somosas filled with ground beef, onion and peppers.  Also make sure to ask for chapati with your meal.  Similar to the South Indian round bread, Kenyan chapati is used to scoop up the stews but unlike their Indian counterparts, Kenyan chapati is much more greasy (in a good way) and I can never seem to pass it up wherever I go.  
If your trip allows you time at the Kenya National Museum but that visit doesn’t overlap with Langi Langi’s lunch hours, the staff will happily make you small snacks so that you can order samosas, chapati and a coke and enjoy the lush vegetation and friendly atmosphere even without the exceptional buffet.  Another worthwhile try, in general, while in Kenya is the soda known as Stoney Tangawizi.  Affectionately called simply “Stoney,” this soda is ginger ale as it should be: peppery and spicy going down.  It’s one of my favorite carbonated beverages, and, though produced by the Coca-Cola company, it is not imported or available anywhere in the United States or Europe.  Give it a try and see if you can handle it!
Nairobi (and East Africa in general) offers many culinary delights which I will detail in future blogs.  I highly recommend vacationing in this underutilized region and will also offer some more specific options in terms of vacations in these upcoming blogs.
Langi Langi Cafe
Museum Hill, Nairobi, Kenya 

July 2018
« Aug